The Burgundy Canal is a magnificent 242km long waterway connecting Paris to Burgundy and though in its early days it was an essential trading route, now it’s perfect for a relaxing boat holiday and there’s no better way to experience it than a self-drive Nicols boat says Jeremy Flint who floated along the glorious stretch of Northern Burgundian countryside between Venarey-les-Laumes and Tanlay for a week.
Navigating this spectacular route and beautiful waterway takes you through the heartlands of the Cote D’Or. En route, you’ll encounter magnificent landscapes, lush rolling hills, picturesque villages, wonderful wildlife, and historic treasures including the Château d’Ancy-le-Franc and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Abbaye de Fontenay.
Meandering through picturesque locks and pleasant countryside, we moored up for our first night near Nogent, alongside a field of vibrant sunflowers which glowed as the sun set.
History of the Burgundy Canal
In the early 1600’s a tax was raised in and around Dijon to fund the cost of a canal to connect Burgundy to Paris. The project didn’t go far. Almost 100 years later, Louis XIV’s great military engineer Vauban came up with 5 possible routes the canal could use to connect the rivers Saône and Yonne. It was impossible to get a consensus. Civil engineers disagreed, local mayors wanted the canal to pass as closely as possible to their towns in order to reap the economic benefits from the trade that would follow, and landowners wanted to sell at very interesting prices. It wasn’t until 1765 during the reign of Louis XVI, more than 150 years after the first steps had been taken to create a canal, that construction actually began.
Progress was not smooth. The state of Burgundy paid for its bit, the French state paid for the rest – or rather they didn’t. Then the French Revolution came along, and the French state funding came to a standstill in 1793. The Burgundian section carried on and the first barge arrived in the port of Dijon in 1808. Even with the Emperor Napoleon insisting it be finished, there wasn’t enough money and too many problems to get the job done. Eventually a huge loan allowed the completion of the Canal including a complicated 3.33 km tunnel and finally in 1832, some 225 years after it first began with the raising of a tax, a barge journeyed the entire route.
The locks
One of the things people wonder about are the locks. Well on this route the locks are all operated by friendly lock keepers between 9am to 12pm and 1pm to 7pm, and the boats have fenders for protection for when the water swirls into and out of the lock chamber.
After a tranquil night in the silent countryside, we set off to meet the operator at lock number 60 to continue our journey. There is no commercial traffic on the Canal de Bourgogne and it’s a very tranquil route. You can hop off an enjoy a walk, cycle along the tow path or simply gently float and soak up the splendid scenery as we did on route to Ravières where we jumped on our rented bikes to the nearest town and gorged on Gougères – a Burgundian savoury speciality – fluffy choux pastry with Gruyère cheese.
Plunging through picturesque locks in the afternoon, numerous sites of interest caught our attention along and near the canal, including the fascinating 18th century historic monument, the Grande Forge de Buffon and Rougemont, a medieval ‘Cité de Caractère’ with a magnificent 13th century church.
Overnighting at Ravières, a pretty little village, we strolled the town’s streets lined with half-timbered houses, before stocking up on food (by the way, some lock keepers also sell local products such as honey, wine and jam).
Continuing to Ancy-le-Franc the next day, we snaked through the locks and glided along at a gentle pace, appreciating the ease of the self-drive boat and the pleasure of slow travel. Gradually, the locks become more widespread and the lush landscapes and teeming wildlife even more alluring. We spotted numerous herons fishing at the water’s edge, otters enjoying the sunshine, kingfishers, dragonflies, and a variety of interesting bird life. Be sure to have your binoculars and cameras at the ready.
Arriving at Ancy-le-Franc, we cycled to the delicious Maison Kieffer bakery to feast on fresh bread and mouth-watering pastries, before visiting the 16th century chateau, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture and once home to Antoine III de Clermont, brother-in-law to Diane de Poitier (1499-1566), mistress of French King Henri II, who stayed here and in whose rooms, it’s said, her ghost has been seen!
Continuing on to lovely Lézinnes, we arrived in time to relax at the side of the boat with an aperitif in the sunshine – you can’t help feeling it doesn’t get much better than this! The next day we were due to turn back but it was tempting not to as fellow boaters we had met recommended cruising on towards Tanlay to see its spectacular moated chateau and extravagant interiors and frescoes. And beyond that, Tonnerre is another must-see with its Fosse Dionne, a circular basin fed by a natural spring that was once a public washing place and the striking church of Saint-Pierre that sits on a rocky terrace overlooking the town. On this route, you’ll never run out of pretty villages to fall in love with, castles to be wowed by, boulangeries to try, markets to shop at…
Slowly making our way back to base, we found yet more places to explore. Strolling the ancient streets of the tranquil town of Montbard, and wandering along the banks of the Brenne river gives you a lovely feel for the town and there are plenty of friendly cafés and bistros to enjoy.
Don’t miss the UNESCO World Heritage Status listed Abbey of Fontenay, a fantastic example of early Cistercian architecture, founded by St Bernard in 1118. You’ll get a glimpse into Cistercian life through the remarkable buildings, gardens and fascinating cloisters.
At Venarey-les-Laumes, cycle for around 20 minutes to visit the enchanting chateau of Bussy-Rabutin with its sumptuous salons, portraits, and French style gardens.
The combination of outstanding natural beauty, the historic treasures of Burgundy, and taking things slowly as you enjoy river life are an irresistible mix – we’re already planning our next boating adventure!
Jeremy Flint is an award-winning professional photographer and writer specialising in travel, landscape and location photography.
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