I’ve travelled to every region of France and learned that there are a few things that many visitors miss out on that really make your holiday special and add an authentic element to your discoveries. These are recommendations that you won’t find in guide books (at least not yet, I have a cunning plan!),  though you may stumble upon them with luck  – chance discoveries that will take you to the heart and soul of your destination, whether that’s in the north, south, east or west, in a city or village, coast, countryside or mountain top!

Top tips to make the most of your holiday in France

Eating out in France

Don’t just go to restaurants in the most well known locations (though don’t rule them out), but also seek out vibrant little village squares where you’ll find tables set around a shady plane tree or tinkling fountain. If chairs wobble on cobbles, it’s not a problem! Look for lace-curtained cafés and vintage-looking bistros that proudly boast their plat du jour on a board, menus that reflect local and traditional dishes, tarte Tatin, cassoulet, moules frites, salad Niçoise, dishes that change with the seasons or according to what is available at the market.

And visit the local markets, many have tables and chairs set up where you can try local products – or have a picnic!

The regional specialities are as much a part of the allure of travelling in France as the landscape and architecture. It’s about eating Buckwheat galettes (a savoury pancake) in Brittany. Try dishes flavoured with epaulette peppers in the Basque area of Southwestern France. Delectable Alsatian Flammekuchen also called tarte Flambée (like pizza) in Alsace, washed down with local wine. Snails in Burgundy. Aligoté – a sort of mashed potato whipped into a gooey delight with Comté or Tomme cheese in the mountains.

Bouillabaisse in Marseille – though be aware it’s very expensive (and another tip for the best bouillabaisse ever, head to Le Maurin des Maures restaurant in the village of Rayol-Canadel sur Mer, Golfe de Saint-Tropez. How about sipping Champagne in Champagne. Cognac in Cognac. Sancerre in Sancerre…  and the list goes on and on. Knowing where your food or wine is from definitely adds an extra layer of flavour.

Let the train take the strain! The French rail network is excellent with fast trains – TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) trains, which travel at speeds of up to 300km/h connect Paris to every region. and local network services TER (Transport Express Regional), or Corail trains, which tend to be older trains and much slower but can carry you across much of the country. Leave the car keys behind, hop on a train, enjoy that lunch with two glasses of wine, or a wine tasting session – and not have to drive afterwards!

Seek out the local boulangerie (bakery) and patisserie (cake shop) with a queue of locals. That’s where you’ll find the best croissants, baguettes and gateaux! Or just ask a local – the French love to share their foodie expertise. Bread is such a symbol of France, so ingrained in the country’s traditions, that to visit a boulangerie and queue with the locals is truly one of the great cultural experiences of France…

Travel tips for France

Be aware of national holidays in France as this often means shops, and some tourist attractions, are closed. France enjoys 11 national holidays a year  but if the date falls on a weekend, then tough luck – they don’t get extra time off in lieu. When the date falls on a Thursday or a Tuesday it’s common to faire le pont – literally to do the bridge but meaning to take a longer weekend off. If you take two days off for an extra-long weekend – you’re really pushing the boat out or as the French say faire le viaduc (do the viaduct)!

Consider a cruise to see a lot in a short time. CroisiEurope are a French family owned cruise company that covers pretty much all of France and they’re not expensive (croisieurope.co.uk).

If you’re visiting in peak tourist time – July/August for the sunshine areas, January/February for the skiing, check out the traffic reports in advance so you can avoid the hotspots. There are several apps that help – type ‘traffic report France’ in your search bar for info.

If you’re driving, make sure you check the legal requirements like having a hi-vis jacket in your car (and several other things). Also check whether you need a Crit’Air sticker. Several major cities require you to display these in your car – they’re an indication of your emissions, and you can buy them easily online for a few Euros – well worth the effort as you can face hefty fines without one.

Where to stay in France

There are holiday resorts known as ‘residences’ in France. They’re popular with the French but not well known as a concept to visitors. Usually they’re in an apartment style block, often with a swimming pool and activities, and often very economical.

If you want to stay somewhere that’s super popular, check to see if there’s somewhere nearby that’s cheaper and offers easy transport options. For instance if you book a hotel near the Eiffel Tower – you’ll pay a premium, but stay in the 10th Arr. and it’ll be much cheaper and you can hop on a metro to reach all the destinations you want.

What not to miss in France – wherever you go

Get under the skin of a place and really get to know it with these top tips.

Seek out the local street market – ask a local which is the best in the area! It’s a cultural experience apart from being where you’ll get the best local and seasonal produce.

Check out the tourist office to see what’s on and get info. Pretty much every town and village has a tourist office, even the non-touristy towns and villages. Often you’ll find that there’s lots more info in the tourist office on leaflets, on posters etc than there is on their website. So if you want to know what’s on, local fetes, son et Lumière (sound and light) shows etc – pop into the tourist office. You’ll get information that’s up to date and you’ll discover things that aren’t in the guide books but can be just as good, if not better, and often less crowded, than the main attraction that’s all over the internet.

Visit a flea market – a bit like a boot sale (but better – and no fleas!). French people are mad for flea markets. You’ll see signs advertising brocantes, marchés aux puces and vide greniers (literally it means empty your attic) all over the place. It’s a national obsession to browse stalls set out in the streets of villages and towns. Every year, literally thousands of weekend flea markets are held in every department. Some are tiny events, maybe 20 stalls, sometimes less. Others are huge. Lille, the regional capital, hosts the biggest flea market in Europe (first weekend in September) with a stonking 10,000 stalls. It goes on through the night and people take torches so they can continue to browse rather than stop to sleep and miss a bargain. Check out the local tourist office or find a local flea market via an app like www.brocabrac.fr

Get on your bike – or hire one. Cycling is huge in France and there are tons of cycle routes that take you through inaccessible to car routes, that are off road and suitable for all levels. Cycle hire shops are everywhere including e-bikes (my preferred means of riding – more time to relax and enjoy the views as you go).

Final tip – learn a bit of the lingo, even if you write it down on paper for when you need it! Or use an app, there are plenty of translation apps that include how to pronounce the words. Please – s’il vous plait and thank you – merci will get you a lot of brownie points wherever you go. I once saw a café sign that stated “un café” = 7 Euros. “Bonjour, un café s’il vous plait” = 2 Euros!

Janine Marsh is the author of several internationally best-selling books about France. Her latest book How to be French – a celebration of the French lifestyle and art de vivre, is out now – a look at the French way of life. Find all books on her website janinemarsh.com

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